Date: 30 May 2018

Location: Anchored Isla Saona, Dominican Republic LAT 18° 11.574 LON 068° 47.083

Weather: Partly Cloudy, Mid 80’s, Wind SSE 15 – 20 Knots

After relatively pleasant nighttime motor sail along the coast, we arrived in the Bay of Jacmel mid-morning where we anchored in the NE corner behind the remnants of what was once a break wall. The goal was to try and get out of the prevailing SE swell. The Bay is open to the SE so although the small reef and the break wall helped with the waves, the swell rolled around the rocks and generally made for a poor anchorage. While we waited for The Admiral’s return, the crew explored the town a little which turned out to be a nice surprise. It was a far cry from Les Cayes. There were a couple of seaside hotels and shops along the cobblestone streets and at least a feel that the locals had a little pride in their town. The place generally seemed to be on the upswing. The walkway along the shoreline of the Harbour District was formed with mosaic artwork and the area was lined with a few shops and a small park. At least there was the sense of trying to develop a tourist trade.

While probably not totally necessary, Captain Brian decided to take on some fuel while we were anchored here. He lives by the old adage from his days piloting airplanes: “There are few thing more useless than Air in the Gas Tanks” (similarly – Runway Behind you and Altitude above You). He worked with some locals to ferry out 30 gallons at a time in Jerry cans as there was not a marina or dock other than the Commercial Wharf for the cargo ship that was working hard to offload concrete. It took the better part of the day but it seemed the best option as Santo Domingo would be the next good opportunity for diesel. The Captain made contact with the Directors of Hands and Feet Ministries (Randy and Denise) that he heard about in Ile a Vache to get some local input on the best way to get The Admiral from the Port Au Prince airport to Jacmel. The choices were limited to a local bus/van system which logistically would have been a challenge to navigate with transfers and didn’t go directly to the airport. The local bus/van system is called a “Tap-Tap” which is basically a brightly painted pickup truck with a roof and open truck bed with bench seats holding as many people as could be stuffed in. The other option was hiring a private Taxi for the round trip. The Taxi Option was selected and off The Captain went.

About all I heard from the Captain is that Port Au Prince needs to be bulldozed down and they need to start over. The downtown section and the area immediately around the airport were decent but the outlining areas approaching the city were described as “Sad”. The poverty, trash and squalor were overwhelming and frankly hard to describe. The Admiral’s flight made it in and the return taxi ride back to Jacmel across the island took them over the mountains and by farm land which was a relief from the pitiful conditions of Port Au Prince. Back in Jacmel, The Captain had made reservations for a room at Colin’s Hotel, enjoying a 3rd floor waterfront view, to give The Admiral a chance to relax after a day of traveling. During the early evening they sat out on the balcony with a drink and enjoyed watching a High School Marching Band and Dance Ensemble practicing on the boardwalk for an upcoming competition. The Captain and Admiral finished up the evening by going out to Pizzeria Jacmel (run by a couple from NY). Whereas “I” got to stay at anchor rocking and rolling around for yet another night – sometimes life on the Sea is just not fair. The next morning my crew met up with Randy and Denise for church and visited the Mission and orphanage. They enjoyed their afternoon and a tour of the facility. The Captain was impressed with the aquaponic and hydroponic vegetable gardens they had in operation. They had the kids helping a caretaker to maintain the systems and learning skills and responsibilities. The Director and Denise joined my Crew for dinner at their local favorite “Café Koze” before saying their farewells.

Able Seaman Jared walked the plank at Jacmel returning to Canada to deal with some personal issues as the Admiral, Captain and First Mate Joe departed for the short day sail crossing into the offshore waters of the Dominican Republic. We stopped for a night at Bahia de Las Aguilas, a National Park and a very picturesque “just off the beach anchorage”. It was a short stop as we continued on to Isla Beata, DR early the next morning. First Mate Joe showed off his sailing skills taking me into the Bay on the NW side of the Island. During the day, my Mainsail developed a little issue; the leech line was working out of a small tear in the sail and trailed loose. It ended up wrapping around the sail and the mast as it was furled in at the end of the day. On the downside, this prevented the mainsail from fully deploying. However on the upside, this gave The Admiral the opportunity to go up the Mast to effect repairs – something she always enjoys. Out came the Bosons’ Chair and up the Mast she went. The light 15 knot breeze and easy swell made the trip aloft more enjoyable as evidenced by her whooping and hollering (or was it screaming and yelling from fear – I’m not exactly Pawsitive about that) on the way up the mast. Whatever it was, she bravely went up with riggers knife clinched in her teeth and cut away the offending leech line freeing up the sail. The task was successfully completed.

Isla Beata is a remote fishing village used by the locals for a several months out of the year and Captain Brian decided to anchor there for the night before rounding the southernmost Cape of Hispaniola. The area is known for its turbulent waters as the wind accelerates around the Point and the waves and swell from opposing directions meet together. Its reputation didn’t disappoint as the winds were forecast to build to the mid 20’s and the seas to the 8 to 10 foot range. One strategy to transit the point is to sail south about 20 miles offshore to “go around” the area. The other is to work thru the Pass between the Island and the Mainland and “get thru the area” as quickly as possible. Since our ultimate plan was to work NE toward Santo Domingo, the Captain decided to get a daybreak start before the wind had a chance to build. Fortunately that plan worked out and we were able to quickly turn the corner and start heading NNE on a better tack. We still had to motor sail and we still got to enjoy a little “washing machine” action from the waves but at least we soon had a decent 45 degree angle into the wind. Our original destination for the day was Las Salinas but “Otto” (my Auto Pilot) decided to take some time off to give Captain Brian a chance to practice his hand steering skills for a several hours. To make the ride a little more comfortable and to make port before dark, The Captain decided to fall off a few degrees, gain some speed and head to Barahona on the western side of the bay.

The crew enjoyed a few days tucked up in a small protected cove in Barahona. As soon as my anchor was down we saw “Fernando” rowing out in his wooden skiff to welcome us along with bringing the Customs, Immigration, Marine Police, and the Health Officials with him. The procedure was completed the Dominican Way with beer for the officials and a small tip for their service. The open air restaurant at the Marina Club Nautica provided a fine meal of Fish, Rice & Beans and Plantains that evening. Captain was hankering for some ice cream so George, the Marina Manger, sent a worker into town on his motorbike to retrieve a gallon that was enjoyed by all. The following day The Admiral and First Mate Joe made a quick trip into town for a few fresh veggies while Captain Brian spent the morning making repairs to Otto. The issue was traced to leaking hydraulic seals on the cylinder which required a trip to a machine shop so the new seals he found would fit in the raceway. Later that morning we weighed anchor and moved out into the outer bay allowing a massive coal tanker to maneuver into the anchorage so it could off load its cargo for the local power plant. The ship pretty much filled up the cove but left enough space for me to come back in. My crew was a able to meet some of the Crew on the Cargo ship and enjoyed a drink with them at the Marina Bar while getting a view from the working man’s world of living on a Cargo Ship – all is not Fun and Rum in their world.

Departing Barahona, we took a deep tack across the bay trying to work the wind angle towards Las Salinas with the wind and waves fighting me. We were able to make headway the first part of the day but had to crank the motor up to make progress during the afternoon to arrive to Salinas by nightfall. In the anchorage, we caught up with our friends Steve, Ashley and their dog on S/V Belle Vista, the couple we had met in Ile a Vache. Sea Tigger provided a lift to a nearby resort dinghy dock and my crew and their friends got a little walk in before having supper on the upstairs verandah of a local restaurant. From their vantage point they could overlook the large bay and see my working Commercial Cousins moored off the docks off to the east under the cranes picking away at the cargo onboard. During the walk back along the street to Sea Tigger they enjoyed the towns Latin influence with loud party music that included lots of nightlife along the many bars. A little rain shower pushed them on their way but did little to dampen the beat of drums. The next morning, The Captain and 1st Mate Joe took a rollicking ride on Sea Tigger to secure our Despacho from the Armanda clearing us to the next port. The outpost was located on the beach at the entrance to the Bay. They had to make a beach landing as there was no dock. Seems a little odd that the local Coast Guard would be without a dock or a boat – however what they did have was their rubber stamps and plenty of forms to complete. It was a short visit in Las Salinas as we departed that same evening for a night crossing to the Santo Domingo area. We arrived early morning after sailing past the sprawling high-rise buildings that is Santo Domingo. The skyscrapers seemed to extend forever along the coast. The last 4 hours of the trip we crossed paths and weaved our way thru an ocean dance floor full of Tankers and Cargo ships headed into port. My AIS alarm definitely got a workout. Our destination was the smaller town of Boca Chica east of the big city where the resorts, a protected bay and the small vessel marinas are located.

We picked up a mooring just off the docks of Marina ZarPar as the slips in the marina itself were too shallow for my keel. Turns out the area around the mooring was also a little shallow as we drifted on a sand bank during the night. With the help of Sea Tiger pushing, we worked our way off in the morning and relocated to a different mooring ball. That evening, my crew had a nice dinner at one of the local resorts as a sendoff for 1st Mate Joe for his departure back to the states the next day. We certainly enjoyed having him on board and appreciated all of his assistance and hard work. We hope he will join our crew again somewhere downstream. While in a secure port, a local sail loft was contacted to make repairs to the mainsail and leech line. The wind was up a little but she had to come down as repairs could not be made in place. The Admiral got to enjoy another quick trip up my mast to the middle spreader to cut away a small piece of the leech line preventing the sail from sliding down the mast and unhooking. She (the sail – not The Admiral) was folded up and dropped in Sea Tigger for the trip to the dock. Later in the day The Admiral headed into ‘Ole, a local grocery store, to see what they had to offer. Transportation was provide by the Marina Staff with a taxi ride back to the docks. We never got a clear answer on which chore was enjoyed the most – grocery shopping or trip up the mast. I truly believe it was the “E Ticket” ride up the stick. S/V Belle Vista sailed into the Marina later in the day and plans were made over a delicious homemade Pasta dinner to take a land excursion into Santo Domingo and checkout the surrounding area by car. Bags got packed and off they went to explore. They found a small local hotel (basic but Admiral Approved) in the city center where they dropped off the bags and headed off to “3 Eyes National Park”, located in the middle of the busy city, to check out its caves, lakes and stalactites. Then they headed to the walled “Old Colonial” section of town to wander the cobblestone streets, have lunch at an outside café on the square, watch the pigeons attack the tourists and visit the Cathedral (amazing paintings, artwork and architecture) where it’s said Cristobal Colon (a.k.a. – Christopher Columbus) is interred. Interesting man – lots of misinformation out there on his voyages and life. (suggest Wikipedia – Christopher Columbus for details). The adventure in the Old Town was finished of at the Chocolate Factory and the “Kah-Kow experience“ http://www.cacatour.com . My crew got a lesson in “how its made” and then they got to make their own chocolate. Not sure but I think that was The Captains favorite stop of the day.

The evening found them meeting up with and some of Ashley’s business friends that she worked with in Canada for dinner downtown outside a three story mall. The restaurant is call “SBG” – not sure what that stands for but it was fancy and formal. They reported that the meal was awesome. There was an impressive glass enclosed wine cellar and the bar was stocked to show off. On the way back to the hotel The Captain convinced the group to stop off at Baskin Robins for some frozen delight.

The following day the crew was off to the mountains for a swim in a waterfall. The trip was slightly delayed with a flat tire and a roadside restaurant where they enjoyed a rib bar-b-que. After the delay, they eventually found the sign pointing them up the dirt and gravel road which lead to an iron gate and some private property. It seemed the entrepreneurial spirit is alive in the Mountains of the DR. $4 got them in and the car looked after while they hiked about ½ mile down a path and thru the woods to the Falls. Captain Brian And Captain Steve ventured out into the pool for a swim while the Admirals took some pics and enjoyed the refreshing mist from shore. Soon they headed back to the Marina making a quick stop at “Ole” to grab a few things.

Sunday was a down day. My crew took advantage of it to get the scuba tanks filled, take me in to the fuel dock to get my tanks filled and take a walk to the Coast Guard Station to get our Despatcho for the next port. The Captain came back a little frustrated when despite completing all the forms (in triplicate) they would not give him the formal Despatcho until early Tuesday morning when we actually left the docks. No big deal but it put us leaving a few hours later than preferred. We were off to Isla Catalina where we arrived late afternoon and the crew decided to stay on board and enjoy some Pawsitive Rum Punch as evening was approaching . Early the next morning we headed off to Isla Saona and were able to finally SAIL THE ENTIRE WAY WITHOUT THE ENGINE. The Island was almost due South and made for a great beam reach. Upon arrival, the anchor went down and we found ourselves all alone right off a fantastic Palm Tree lined, white sand beach and settled in for the evening. By 1030 the next morning we were no longer alone. It was the “Invasion of the Party Cats”. No less than 30 large catamarans along with every type of motor boat imaginable came sailing in from the mainland all packed to the brim with tourists intent on eating, drinking and getting maximum sun exposure. The beach party lasted the day but by 1600, once again, we were alone. We spent a few days there enjoying the sites and sounds. Our next stop is Puerto Rico and US soil again.

Joyce and Brian Clark

S/V Pawsitive Latitude

bclark@umihvac.com

+1 239 898 7646

Facebook – The Saga of S/V Pawsitive Latitude

Church Service with the hands and feet folks

George and the Crew Barahona

First mate Joe on the Balcony in Jacmel

First Mate Joe’s last night with us

First Mate Joe keeping us on course

DR customs and Armanda

A worldwide meal

Chris pointing the way old Towne Santo Domingo

China patterns at SBG restaurant Santo Domingo

Chef George Barahona

Build it and they will come

Bay de Jacmel, Haiti

Band practice Jacmel style

Mosaic on the boardwalk in Jacmel

Isla Saona, DR

Invasion of the Party Cats Saona, DR

Got to take the Admiral out occasionally, Boca Chico

Making Chocolate at Kah Kow experience

Inside the Pirates Lair

Now theres a bar properly set up, SBG, Santo Domingo, DR

Over the mountain to Port Au Prince

Port las Salinas

Port of Jacmel

Promise of a new day

Shore landing Isla Saona

Wine cellar SBG Santo Domingo, DR

Transportation options in Haiti

To the market to buy a fat pig

Three Eyes Park Santo Domingo, DR

Sierra de Agua Falls, DR

Staying out of the way

Date: 19 May 2018

Location: Anchored Off Beach Isla Beata, Dominican Republic LAT 17° 36.644 LON 071° 31.763

Weather: Sunny, Upper 80’s, Wind E 15 – 20 Knots

The Admiral departed from Kingston and made it back to Charleston while Captain Brian did a few maintenance items and welcomed some new crew members to the boat for the crossing to Haiti and the Dominican Republic. First mate Joe Warren and Able Seaman Jared Slotwinski joined up for the next leg, We cleared out of Jamaica on 2 May and weighed anchor about an hour before sunset in order to take advantage of the offshore katabatic breeze flowing down the mountains along the coast. The crossing is about 220 nautical miles to Ile A Vache, Haiti and was expected to take about 40 hours. First Mate Joe took charge of the Helm and skillfully guided us out of Kingston Harbour an into the open ocean as the sun disappeared. Sunrise found us off the eastern end of Jamaica when we had a repeat of the idler pulley failure. The Captain decided to head into Bowden Bay (Port Morant) to make repairs. He got the belt and pulley replaced and prepared to head out again just as we got a visit by the harbor police that wanted to know our status. We lost about 6 hours which meant we probably would not make port in Haiti until after dark.

The trip across was relatively uneventful as the crew took 3 hours shifts. The wind and wave action was typical and as expected at about 15 knots out of the East with 3 to 5 foot seas. Late Thursday night (early Friday morning) we did pass thru a couple of squalls that produced some 25 to 30 knot winds for about 15 to 20 minutes as the frontal lines passed. We reduced sail and headed into the wind and waves during these showers to ease the motion of the boat and maintain steerage. The scattered rain showers continued most of Friday but with moderate winds which allowed me to make reasonable progress. We raised Haiti on Friday afternoon and rounded the SW point as sunset approached.

The time we lost in Bowden Bay came back to haunt us as we were unable to make the anchorage in Ile a Vache until after dark. It’s never good to go into a unknown and unfamiliar port after dark – too many bad things can happen. The Captain was unable to determine the layout of the Harbour or the location and position of any other boats anchored so we decided to drop anchor near the mouth of the Bay. Just as the Captain slowed my engine RPM down he got an unknown “alarm” at the helm station. He ordered “anchor down” and shut the engine off to investigate.

No obvious issue but the engine would not restart. The decision was made to wait until morning and daylight to investigate further. Turns out that “Morning and Daylight” would have to wait. Around 0100 the Captain felt that awful thud of “keel bumping bottom” and found we had swung over a shallow area and needed to move out into deeper water. Captain revisited the engine issue and found the fuel filters clogged. A change of filters solved the problem and a running engine allowed them to raise the anchor and motor out to re-anchor in deeper water. They also properly set my anchor this time and we stayed put. With everything secured and properly set it was time to wash up and try to get some sleep. Turning the faucet on they found no water pressure but fortunately that was an easy fix also – swap the water filters out and all was well (seemed like all the filters were clogging at one time).

First Mate Joe was up early the next morning and ran interfere warding off the multiple dugout canoes circling the boat looking to “help” us with anything from hull cleaning to supplying mango’s and lobsters. They mean well and are simply looking to survive but can be a little bothersome. After a long night the Captain was just not ready to deal with local vendors quite yet. In the daylight, when Captain Brian was able to survey the anchorage, talk to a Captain on another boat to verify water depths, the decision was made to relocate closer to shore and “inside” a small basin that provided much better protection from the wind. Spent the day exploring the Capt Henry Morgan Resort on shore in the bay. The resort was built about 35 years ago but has fallen into disrepair. It’s still in operation with a small restaurant and a few Villas but certainly not living up to its potential. The crew struck up a conversation with a couple of “boat boys” at the resort dock and took Sea Tigger over to a small beach bar for a couple of beers and some Rum. Then they wandered over to the small village of Caille Coq. The lifestyle is basic and uncomplicated. No one appeared to be malnourished and there were small plots of land with gardens of corn and vegetables, plenty of goats and chickens running around and of course the ocean for fish and seafood. They appear content with what they have and to their credit, make do with what they have. The land is low lying and swampy and the structures are shacks are made out of whatever is available but the village was clean and well kept. There were a few concrete houses and buildings scattered around and a field for the children to play soccer. There is a local church, a school and a UN Mission building near the center of town. No power in the village but there is a central well for water with a hand pump. There were a few folks that have small generators but they are used sparingly as gas is hard to come by.

During the exploration, the crew met a group of guys sitting on the porch of the “local” bar having a beer. They were obviously not locals. My crew introduced themselves, ordered up a round of brew and had very interesting and thought provoking discussion. Turns out they are associated with a Mission groups that, among other things, go around to the villages teaching the people how to build and operate bread ovens. Not doing it “for” them but teaching them “how” to do it for themselves and become self-sufficient. In their view, seems one of the unintended consequences with the effort to get Haiti back on its feet is that the Aid Organizations are actually hurting the effort and the local economy by “flooding” the country with massive amounts of food and “free” material and supplies. It has the effect of putting the local population out of work. I.e. – give a man food for “free” and you ruin the local farmer and his market. Ship in “free” concrete and build a school with “foreign” labor and the local Building Materials Supplier and Construction workers lose their opportunities to make a living. The people and economy become dependent and stagnant. It’s obviously more complicated than that but the idea is to provide opportunities for them to rebuild their economy from within. Give them the “know-how”, direction and supervision to let them do for themselves. I’ll leave a deeper discussion for the economists and the Bernie Sanders of the world to give other viewpoints.

A couple of the guys in the group were connected with an Organization called “Hands and Feet Ministries” which operates several orphanages and provides housing for kids that have been abandoned by their parents (mainly because they can’t feed them). They have a facility in the town of Jacmel on the mainland which, as it turns out, was selected as the best place to stop and pick up The Admiral. They gave the Captain the Directors contact info so he could arrange overland transportation from Port-Au-Prince. After a full day of exploring, the crew returned late afternoon and enjoyed Lobsters that First Mate Joe procured thru intense negotiations with a boat boy earlier in the day. The dinner included pasta salad of peppers, cucumbers, onions, and carrots all cut up and prepared by the First Mate.

The next morning Captain Brian and First Mate Joe attended the local church in a village a few miles down the coast with Pastor Raymond. The Pastor was the Capt’n that helped us out earlier with finding a more secure anchorage location in the harbour. They all rode in the local “Church Bus” – a 20 foot wooden skiff with a 40 HP outboard. Pulling up to shore as close as possible but still requiring the parishioners to wade in the last 10 feet or so but fortunately the service was dress casual. Captain Raymond has two sailboats in the anchorage – La Victoria and Revelation and founded IEM Ministries in Haiti 16 years ago. He has quite the presence in Ile de Vache area working with mission teams from the States building schools, wells and water sources, churches and feeding hungry kids, all while Preaching the Gospel at every opportunity. The service was in Creole but they did sing a song or two in English. My crew was joined by Steve and Ashley on S/V Belle Vista – a young Canadian couple out on their own sailing adventure.

That afternoon I got my belly rubbed and scrubbed by a couple of Boat Boys from the village. Able Seaman Jarad supervised and snorkeled around the boat to inspect their work reporting back to the Captain that they did a fair job given they only used masks and snorkels along with 4” scrappers. Of course they wanted more $ than what was agreed to in advance but at least they worked for their pay. My soft hearted Captain gave them a decent tip for their efforts. My crew had drinks on a neighbors boat listening to wild stories from Pastor Raymond about his experiences on the island. One of them being the time he ran the Dive Shop for Captain Morgan’s Resort and his treasure hunting adventures. Never found the mother lode but believes it’s still out there close by.

Next morning Captain and First Mate Joe took the “Water Taxi” over the mainland to explore the town of Les Cayes. The town itself is really not much but the Water Taxi ride was certainly a memory maker. The name “Water Taxi” fits the experience. The boat was identical to the Church Bus we rode on the day before but this time the ride was in open water for about 8 miles. The trip over wasn’t bad – it was with the wind. Once they arrived, things got interesting. The chain of events required to disembark and get to shore was quite the circus. The boat could only get within about 30 feet of the shore – shallow water and large swells keep them from getting closer. The passengers transferred to “dugout canoes” that were hand pushed to within about 10 feet of shore and then “local” boys carried the folks on their backs up to the shoreline which was covered in trash and rotting sea grass. My Captain chose to get his feet wet and wade the last 10 feet. A great opportunity for someone to build a breakwater with a dock and make some money. The return was memorable as well. The loading process was repeated in reverse and the Water Taxi took off. The boat was packed full of people and supplies running hard into the wind and waves. The passengers used a shredded tarp to try to keep the splashing waves from soaking them but it was really just for pretend. They got drenched. The crew on the water taxi included a full time water bailer who had a full time job. The Captain made the decision then and there that he would need to find an alternative method to get The Admiral back on board.

The following day The Captain and Able Seaman Jared changed the oil and filters on my engine and generator, rechecked the fuel filters, finished up running the last of the new lifelines and prepped the boat for departure. The Crew had a “Last Supper” with Pastor Raymond along with Ashley and Steve on S/V Bella Vista at a local shack on shore. A great meal of the typical Haitian fare consisting of chicken, fish, rice and beans and entertaining conversation. Off to bed early as the crew was up at 0530 because the Captain wanted “Anchor Up” at 0600 so we could make progress eastward before the wind built up. A relatively short 20 mile motor sail and we dropped anchor for the day in a protected cove called Refuge Bay. My crew caught a long nap and were up at 2200 hours for an overnight trip to Jacmel (those darn Trade Winds) where they would spend a few days and wait for The Admirals return.

Joyce and Brian Clark
S/V Pawsitive Latitude
bclark@umihvac.com

+1 239 898 7646
Facebook – The Saga of S/V Pawsitive Latitude

Date: 27 April 2018

Location: Anchored Kingston Harbour, Jamaica LAT 17° 56.810 LON 076° 46.411

Weather: Sunny, Upper 85, Wind E 15 Knots

We anchored up in Montego Bay ahead of a nice downwind sail around the NW corner of Jamaica en route to the “Backpackers Beach” of Negril. The West coast is pretty much one long stretch of white sand with small hotels and beach bars dotting the shore line. A few fancier places on the north end covered with water toys and tourists being pulled by outboards, a few parasails doting the skies and some Party Cats with sun seekers dancing to the music. As we worked southward along the coast the places got smaller and simpler. Enjoyed a little rain shower (I do need an occasional bath) before we dropped the hook off a beach bar called Woodstock. Sea Tigger ferried the crew in for supper and some live Reggie (aka Reggae according to First Mate Karrie Lynn) music. The show even included a magic act. They met some local kids- complete with backpacks and water bottles and enjoyed the show.

Probably would have “Chilled Out” here another day or 2 but we needed to start our way Up The South Side towards Kingston as The Admiral had flight reservations for 25 April. So instead, we headed out early the following morning for Black River. Rounded the Negril Lighthouse on the SW corner of the Island and got a taste of the adventure ahead.

Trade Winds are a Force of Nature and a Fact of Life. Sometimes you “Love” them and sometimes you “Live” with them. If you are headed West – you “Love” them – if headed East you “Live” with them. The Trade Winds are located in a belt from roughly 30 degrees N to 30 degrees south of the equator and blow continuously out of the East towards the West. They blow year around but with different intensity (10 to 15 knots and up to 25 to 30 knots) and slightly different directions (slightly out of the NE or slightly out of the SE) depending on the time of year. Just track any hurricane as they come off the coast of Africa and you will see the effects and direction of the Trade Winds.

Since Sailors Started Sailing the Seven Seas; repeat that fast 5 times, they have had to deal with them and now it’s our turn. There are different strategies – such as traveling at night when they tend to be lighter close to land or tacking back and forth through the wind to make headway. About 40 to 45 degrees into the wind, that is about as tight as we can sail. We modern day sailors do have the advantage over the old timers by virtue of sail design and engines which allows us to motor sail; oxymoron? But whatever method is used, it is and will always be something sailors will have to “Live” with when heading East into the Trade Wind belt.

Okay, enough of the Science lesson. After a few hours motor sailing into a strong headwind, we stopped in a small cove called Whitehouse Bay (yep, you’re right – named for the big White House in the Bay) for a few hours rest and to let a thunderstorm pass by before continuing on to Black River. After navigating a couple of reefs at the entrance to Black River Bay, we furled the sails and continued on under power alone. The town is positioned way up in the large bay situated right at the mouth of the River. Next, the crew dropped and lowered my anchor in about 14 feet of water off of the town docks. They took a few minutes to get me cleaned up and settled in and were about to head into town but not before the local Marine Patrol came aboard to check our documents and fill out their array of forms. Invited them on-board for a coke and some crackers and wrapped officialdom up pretty quickly.

The South (windward) side of Jamaica is not traveled as much but this area is certainly one of the highlights. The current from the River flows down from the Santa Cruz Mountains pretty hard – maybe 4 to 5 knots at the entrance. Similar to a lot of rivers in Florida, the water is really a deep brown (color of molasses) instead of Black which is a result of tannins in the water from the mangroves. The ecosystem of the River is very complex. Marsh grass, Red and Black Mangroves with their tangle of roots and massive amounts of Lily pads swamp the water. It is Jamaica’s most significant crocodile habitat and supports dozens of bird species including Snow Egrets and several types of Herons. On Saturday, The Admiral and Captain took Sea Tigger under the bridge and upstream a few hundred yards (she fought the current well) where they joined a couple from England for a river tour further inland on a pontoon boat to visit the critters. Apparently crocodiles are territorial and stay pretty much in the same general area. The guide had names for each one and knew pretty much where to find them. There were amazing and extensive Mangrove trees and root systems along the river bank. Some of the trees extending 50 to 60 feet up. The guide claimed some of the trees were aged over 200 years and grew up to 6” per year when young. The boat stopped up river to give the group an opportunity to jump in the water but the Admiral declined. She said it was the murky brown color but I believe it was the possibility of coming face to face with a set of teeth. Back at the tour docks they viewed a crocodiles nursery where there were some young ones being raised for release. The river guide indicated that roughly only 5 or 6 eggs out of 60 will hatch and reach maturity. Seems like they can use a little help but nature has its reasons. All in all it was a good excursion.

After the River Tour, my crew hitched a ride with the couple from England and their personal driver and headed up to Y-S Falls. Got a laugh when they heard the name of the driver. James Clark (First Mate Dustin’s Birth name) took us about 20 miles (45 minutes) up into the mountains to a private Farm/Estate that had a decent size river running through the area. The place was set up as a public park. At the gated entrance to the property, my crew was met by a Massey Ferguson farm tractor pulling a wagon that took them up to the Park area and the Falls. The place was surrounded by forests; had 3 gravel lined swimming holes, a restaurant, gift shop, a zip line, gardens, walking trails and changing facilities with showers. A regular State Park just without the camping facilities. They climbed along the side of the river to the top of the Falls for the view. The tour book boasted that these Falls were some of the most pristine in Jamaica. I guess that means it typically is unless there hasn’t been rain for 3 days prior to your visit. The water here was brown as well but this time it was from mud. There were ropes stretched across the Falls for those wanting to navigate the rocks but, at The Admirals insistence (although I hear she didn’t put up a real big fight), the Captain was only allowed to get his feet wet in the river and retreated to one of the pools to get totally committed.

A Hay Ride back to the entrance and a taxi ride back to the Town where they found  Sea Tigger still waiting at the docks. The ride back out was interesting, as it was a river current flowing against an incoming tide and wind. Just to add to the excitement it started raining hard, really hard! Made for some steep wave action for about 150 feet. They survived and arrived safely to where I was patiently waiting to hear about the days adventures. Only downer for the day was when they discovered a basic truism of sailing: Deck Hatch left open = wet berth. Seems the crew (The Admiral says it was the Captains fault) left one of my overhead hatches open and the passing rain shower took full advantage of it. But the rain is gone, wind is gone and there’s a rainbow over the mountains. Another fun day exploring Jamaica!

That night the crew enjoyed a Spaghetti dinner and a pleasant surprise. Either the speaker at the local bar broke or the power went out. Quiet at 2100 hours allowed the crew to get some sleep. Up at 0500 to get a few miles Eastward before the wind started to pick up around 1030. Destination Alligator Reef. This is really just a stop behind a low exposed offshore reef that provides protection from the waves. The charts are not real detailed for this area so we went in slow and careful. Found a sandy spot in about 12 feet behind an exposed reef that was perfect for several hours of rest. The winds were 25 knots plus on the nose all day so we sat tight. As the evening came on, the winds eased off to about 15 knots, enough for us to continue Eastward. Departed at 2200 motor sailing with the mainsail about half way to help stabilize the roll from the waves. Arrived at Pelican Bay about 10 hours later, around 0800 and put out the anchor behind a small Cay that was good protection from the wind and waves. They turned off my engine and it didn’t take long for them to fall asleep right there in the cockpit. Early afternoon I saw some local fishermen come by and offer some of their catch. Good looking fish but the crew declined as The Admiral was leaving in a couple of days to head back to the States. The crew took it easy, made some water, did a few chores and went to bed early.

Up at 0430 and departed at first light on the final leg to Kingston Harbour. The wind was relatively light and from a favorable direction (15 knots out of the SE) which made for an enjoyable sail around the point and into the Harbour entrance. Kingston Bay is a large and busy place. Dozens of Container ships, barges, tugs and freighters all coming and going competing for space. Two main channels bring you to the entrance of the main harbour. When The Admiral asked if we had the right of way, The Captain referred to me as a “Mouse Among a Herd of Elephants” and said his job was just to stay out of the way. Originally my Captain wanted to anchor where the infamous Captain Morgan once anchored and stay at Port Royal Yacht Club. That was just inside the entrance at the tip of the peninsula separating the inner harbour from the outer bay. However, they found it looking run down with 3 old boats tied to the dock; one appeared to be sinking and no visible activity. We hailed on the VHF with no response. Very uninviting. So onward to the far end of the inner harbour past the Container Ship docks, the Cranes, the Anchoring Zones for the Port and the City to the extreme eastern end arriving at the Royal Jamaican Yacht Club (RBYC). This put us next to the airport anyway which was a plus.

We anchored down just outside the marina, crew cleaned themselves up, launched Sea Tigger and headed to the docks. Peter, the Marina Manager warmly greeted us, asked what he could do for us and led us in the office where his staff arranged for our check-in and lunch. Peter and staff could not have been nicer or more helpful. Officially checked in and bellies full, plans were made to go visit the famous town of Port Royal a few miles away. Once a thriving City and called “The Richest and Wickedest City in the World”, Lord Admiral Horatio Nelson had Fort Charles constructed to control the Harbour and protect the town. Pirates, Privateers and the Royal Navy all at one time or another, controlled the island and the port. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 1692 and never recovered. Its glory days of Calico Jack, Henry Morgan and Edward “Blackbeard” Teach is definitely part of the past. The crew explored Fort Charles, The Battery and walked through the city. The Captain was disappointed. In his admittedly warped mind, he saw a miniature Charleston or Savannah. The reality he found was an old, worn and neglected town. Not at all what he expected. Definitely better in his imagination. The crew hopped on a local bus full of students from a local tech school studying Marine Engineering that were headed to Kingston. It dropped them off on the main road near RJYC and they had a pleasant 15 minute walk back to the marina. As dusk fell the sand fleas attacked so it was a mad scramble to Sea Tigger and back to me. They took a bath and went back to the Yacht Club to get a taxi into Kingston for dinner. Stopped by the Devon House which is  an old Plantation with extensive gardens and specialty shops. The Plantation House; once home of the first Black Jamaican millionaire, has been preserved and is now a fancy Steak House. He made his money, a lot of money, mining for gold in Venezuela. Captain found a Bakery for Carrot Cake and an Ice Cream Shop to top it off. They said there were lots of folks enjoying the evening wandering around the gardens and shops.

My crew finally got back home around 2300 hours and turned in for the evening. The Admiral enjoyed her perked coffee at sunrise the next morning and packed up for her return to the States for a friend’s wedding and First Mate Karrie Lynn’s Graduation from Vet Tech School. The Captain stayed with me to receive new crew and make preparations for the crossing to Haiti and beyond.

Joyce and Brian Clark
S/V Pawsitive Latitude
bclark@umihvac.com

+1 239 898 7646
Facebook – The Saga of S/V Pawsitive Latitude

60’s Drink

Bath Time

Everybody needs a castle

Black River after the storm

Party Time

Black River Bridge

Town of Negril

Croc Nursery

Turning the SW corner of Jamaica

1692 Earthquake results

do not disturb

Whitehouse Bay

Admiral Nelson Headquarters

Fishing Boat Black River

Better than a Fl sinkhole

Garden Y-S Falls

Coast Guard entrance

Getting ready to go fishing

For the Big gun

Hanging on

Fort Charles

Hay ride to the Falls

Guarding Port Royal

Headed out of the mouth of the Black River

My kinda Bowl

into the Black River

Jump right in

shipwreck

We have the right of way all the way to the bottom

just a little closer

lurking

mangrove roots

Muddy from the rain

No escape

Our chariot

Overlooking Y-S Falls

Pool at Y-S falls park

Ride to Y-S Falls outside of Black river

Y-S Falls

Y-S Falls overlook

Y-S Fall vines

Y-S Falls

Zip-Line

Date:  18 April 2018

Location: Anchored Montego Bay, Jamaica   LAT 18° 27.717  LON 077° 56.507

Weather: Sunny, Upper 80’s, Wind E 10-15 Knots

 Departed Port Antonio heading west with the Wind and Waves off the stern just ahead of some clouds that promised a sprinkle later in the day. Not too long before the wind disappeared as the air got sucked up in the building storm so the motor came alive as we wanted to keep making progress and stay ahead of any bad weather.  After a few hours of noise, the idler pulley on my engine decided it wanted lunch so it chose to eat the drive belt and spit out a bearing and a bunch of rubber dust. One of those deals where it’s a one belt system that drives the raw water pump and the alternator.  The alternator I can do without (back up gen set, solar panels and wind turbine for power) but cool water for me to drink is a definite “got to have” item.  Before I got heat stroke, the Captain shut off the engine and we did what sailboats are supposed to do – we sailed.  Maybe not as fast as The Admiral wanted as she looked astern, but fast enough that the rain chasing us died out before reaching me. We continued on arriving at our first stop along The North Face – the small Bay of Oracabessa just as the Sun was getting settled in for the evening.  The Oracabessa region’s claim to fame is that it’s the home of Ian Fleming and the setting for several of his “James Bond” series. Anchored just off James Bond Beach and the main Resort (5 Star with rooms priced accordingly) called “GoldenEye” named in tribute to Fleming and is one of the most famous 007 films.  My crew enjoyed lobster (purchased from a local fisherman – the crew still has not caught any) for supper on the boat and turned in early.

 Next morning was first things first, The Admiral got her hands dirty and jumped right in to help get the pulley and belt replaced. Soon the crew had my engine doing what all good engines are supposed to do – drink diesel fuel and spit out fumes (pretty disgusting if you ask me – wind power is so much more civilized).  Quick shower and they were off to explore the town. Strolled thru a hardware and general merchandise store (The Admiral has been in search of some hairbands since the Bahamas to tame that flowing hair of hers), passed by a schoolyard full of kids at recess all in their blue and white uniforms, grabbed some fresh veggies and then over to The GoldenEye for a late lunch.  Enjoyed the signature GoldenEye Rum drink, cool and refreshing.

Ocho Rios – “Eight Rivers” for those who slept thru Spanish class, was the next stop along the coast. Dropping my hook near the cruise ship dock and The Moon Palace named for the Bond film Moonraker. We had a nice breeze and well protected spot.  Local Marine Police dropped by to welcome us and check out our paperwork. The Crew took Sea Tigger in and tied up in front of the Police Station to wander thru the market area – fortunately without the Cruise ship hordes as there was no ship in port at the time. They walked downtown, mingled with some locals and had lunch at “Mom’s”, a small hole in the wall place, serving home cooked Jamaican dishes.  The crew spent the evening on the boat sipping on The Admiral’s “PRP” (Pawsitive Rum Punch) and watching the Sailing Cats returning to the beach resorts surrounding the Bay. Each vessel was “packed” with sunburned, dancing vacationers who were enjoying copious amounts of their own concoction of Rum drinks and seeing who could sing the loudest.

Following day the crew completed a few boat chores and then off to the Dunn’s River Falls.  A short taxi ride to the park that included several zip line courses thru the canopy, gardens and the Falls. The Park was built for the Cruise Ship crowd but since there was no ship in port they pretty much had the place to themselves. They scaled the Falls that cascaded about 300 feet down through a series of pools.  Best of all they managed it without falling or breaking any bones. Enjoyed the cool mountain water and a stroll thru the Gardens. The Captain was all up for the Zip Line but that pesky weight limit got in the way again.  After enjoying the better part of the day there, they came back to the boat to check in with the Uniforms for clearance to our next port. On the dinghy ride from the Customs office, my crew stopped to say hello to a boat they had met in Port Antonio and hailed from the Netherlands. They had come into the anchorage to rest for the night and were making way for Panama.

Discovery Bay was the next port and we enjoyed a lively sail along the way.  The morning breeze started lightly but steadily picked up during the afternoon. Turning into the Bay after clearing the reef filled my sails enough to dip the rail in the water a time or two as we rounded into the wind. A little splash over the bow made for a nice ending to the days sail. There is a large commercial shipping terminal for a Bauxite (used in Aluminum) mining operation located in the Bay that looks evil enough that it was chosen to serve as the lair for Dr. No – the villain in first of the Bond films. The intent of stopping in Discovery Bay was to visit the Birthplace and Mausoleum of Bob Marley up in the mountains above the Bay in the village of Nine Mile (nobody could tell the Captain the origin of the name) and also to check out the Green Grotto. There was not a real good place to land Sea Tigger near the town so the crew tied up at the Coast Guard Station docks.  They had to deal with a little swell washing into the Bay and Sea Tigger later told me she was very happy that she had the Chaps to protect her from rubbing against the pilings and rocks. The Captain went into the village to check logistics for the things they wanted to see and found out that the sites closed at 1600 and Bob’s place was much more than “Nine Miles” away so he decided they would be better off renting a car when we raised Montego Bay and tour the area on their own (more on that later).  On the way back to the Station, they made their normal stop at one of the local vegetable stands to gather something to go with supper. The Admiral has really enjoyed the availability of fresh vegetables and the opportunity to chat with the local ladies.

Not to miss the local scene on the beach, they dropped off the bounty back on the boat and took Sea Tigger over to the far side of the Bay (too shallow for me to get close) where a collection of about 8 to 10 beach bars are grouped together. They tied Sea Tigger up to a mooring buoy along with a small local fishing boat about 50 feet off the shoreline. Then they waded onto shore and enjoyed the next few hours at the “Caribbean Bar and Grille”. Pretty much a bunch of beach shacks made out of bamboo, plywood, corrugated metal sheets and whatever else the locals could scavenge up. The place was definitely the local hangout – jerk chicken and pork on the grills, music coming from 4 different directions, guys playing domino’s, lots of Red Stripe and a thick cloud of Ganja smoke in the air.  They met John from New York that lives down here about 6 months out of the year and is a local driver for the Marine Research Center located here in the Bay (i.e. – Discovery Bay). Turns out the Center is associated with Coastal Carolina, which is where daughter Ashley is a Graduate. Donna was the “drink specialist” at the Caribbean and also gave The Admiral instructions on how to cook up the local Yam.  Looks like sections of a thick root or tree trunk that have to be peeled like a carrot and is similar to a potato with a firm yellow texture. The crew had a sample it was pretty good or maybe it was the Rum that made it seem that way.  The crew was able to make it home just after the Sun crashed into the mountains. The music went on pretty much all night and really carried over the water as the breeze dropped to -0-.  My crew ended up sleeping on deck as the temperatures stayed in the mid 80’s even after dark. Luckily we were far enough from shore that the flying teeth didn’t find us.

We were up early on Sunday morning for a motor sail to Falmouth Bay.  Most of the Bay is surrounded by mangroves and is very shallow with grass flats. During the day the winds increased to the 20 knot range so we tucked in behind the reef and put the chain down in about 15 feet of water. The location was about 200 yards from the cruise ship docks just outside the turning basin that was dredged out.  Even so, the wind and waves still had a little spirit to them so the crew stayed put to wait for the winds to dissipate in the late afternoon. While the crew was enjoying lunch, the Jamaica Marine Police stopped by to check us out and verify our paperwork. They added their official stamp to the cruising permit and off they went. Guess there isn’t much for them to do on a Sunday afternoon.

At about 1800 hours Sea Tigger ferried the crew to Glistening Waters Resort and Marina on the far end of the Bay for a nice seafood dinner. The wind still had not let up completely so the ride in was a little choppy. The Captain angled her for the mangroves along the shoreline to stay out of the breeze as much as possible. They reported passing by several sunken boats washed up into the mangroves. Very sad way for my brethren to end up. They enjoyed a nice meal, listened to a little music and then when the wind died out for the evening and it got dark it was time to explore the green glow….

One of only “Four Places In The World” – so say the marketing folks – where the waters light up with a fluorescent green glow when disturbed. The technical explanation is that there is a high concentration of microorganisms that produce photochemical reactions creating a bioluminescent glow in the water.   The mangroves, turtle grass and mud bottom make the water about a foot below the surface just a little murky which causes the light to refract and spread the glow. The clear fresh water coming out of a nearby river “floats” on top of the salt water to make the top layer sparkly with points of light.   I couldn’t see it from where I was anchored but the crew reported it is definitely something to see. Slowly moving thru the water in Sea Tigger, the prop wash and wake had a bright and almost eerie looking trail behind her for 10 feet or so. The crew could see well defined streaks of bio-luminescent created by the fish that would dart all about in the water.   The real fun would have been getting out of the boat and into the water to splash around a bit but The Admiral would have none of that – she mumbled something about a pitch black sky and crocodiles.  She only got close enough to take an oar and splash the surface from the safety of Sea Tigger.

The next morning we sailed to our last stop along The North Face, Montego Bay and its Resort Row.  The city is fairly big (second only to Kingston) and is a bustling, active town. We anchored directly in front of the Yacht Club at the back of the Bay, near the Cruise Line docks. The Club has a nice mooring field but is mostly full of local commercial boats; Party Cats, a “Floating” Glass Bottom Submarine, Snorkel boats and a few Parasailing boats, that are tied in with the Resorts and Cruise Ship excursions. The docks were full of local sport fishing boats mostly belong to Jamaican residents.  The Yacht Club was First Rate. People were friendly and helpful, and the pricing for services and food were reasonable.

Upon our arrival it was time to once again dinghy in to take care of the Customs paperwork (these folks really like their forms and stamp pads) and to have some lunch.  My crew spent most of the first afternoon at the Club using their Wi-Fi and internet services to catch up on emails, bills and correspondence. One thing the Crew has found is cell service (and internet connections via cell service) are very spotty and slow in most places we visited.  It was nice to finally have fast, reliable service.   The Captain checked with the Club Staff about a rental car for the following day and they set him up with one of the Immigration Officers who had an extra car she rents out. It was perfect for my crew. She made sure the Captain understood that he had to drive on the left side of the road (she must have had an issue in the past because she repeated it about 6 times).

Monday morning the Crew was up with the rising sun to head off and visit the places they wanted to see around the Discovery Bay area and some spots around Montego Bay.  They headed towards Nine Mile to see what’s up with the National Legend – a.k.a. Bob Marley. First part of the trip was along the coast on a decent highway but that changed when they turned north to head up the mountain. After a few blind curves, a few more pot holes and 1 ½ hour drive, they arrived to a small village overlooking a vast valley. The site itself was actually a gated compound with restricted access to tour buses and taxi’s bringing in Resort and Cruise ship folks. I guess my crew had that “look” so they let them in with the rental car. The report I got back was actually mediocre – a little too over commercialized for my crews taste.  There were a lot of people, a tour guide in his best Rastafari outfit and hair providing some basic “history”, a small band playing his songs, a snack bar, a roped off small house, a meditation hut, cooking pit and the mausoleum where Bob was encased 6 feet above ground. No photos were allow of the tomb.  One of those places that you have a grand vision in your mind but in reality it just doesn’t match up with it.

After, they headed down hill to visit the Green Grottos located in St Ann’s Parish. Now this was more like it. The tour “group” consisted of a group of five; the guide, The Captain, The Admiral and one other couple from a nearby resort. No crowds or commercialism to mess up the natural beauty and authenticity of the place. “Green” comes from a little bit of algae that grows on some of the walls, the Grotto is a very extensive system of underground caves, passages and dead end tunnels covering some 25 acres with some areas still to be mapped and explored. Once inhabited by the Taino Indians it was also used as hideouts by the Spanish (when England was after the Island), runaway slaves (when the English were after the slaves) and Pirates and Rum Runners (when everyone was after them). There were loads of Bats nesting in holes in the ceiling and a few dead ones scattered around. It seems the bats feast on a large amount of overripe (ok – guide said fermented but really meant rotten) fruit and become drunk. They fly around in the dark and smack into the walls  – “Blind as a Bat” so to speak.   According to the crew, the rock formations with stalactites and stalagmites were incredible. They wore hard hats to protect their noggins from the sharp rocks as well as the Bat Guano falling from the ceiling.  There were areas where the roots of Banyan trees had worked their way thru the rock crevices and hung down 25 feet in search of water.  In one chamber, the crew descended almost 100 feet down to find a crystal clear, fresh water, spring fed underground lake. Of course the guide did the normal “opps – we lost power” demonstration to show just how difficult it would be to navigate and find the way in the caves.

In more recent times (60’s and 70’s), the area just inside the front entrance to the Grotto was used for a private night club complete with a bar cut into the rock wall, a grill area and shallow pool which once contained lobsters and fish for the grill. Apparently it got shut down after several people got hurt hitting their heads on the ceiling or would wander off and get lost in the caves.  The Government purchased the land and turned it into a National Park and Historic Site. This place was much more to the Captains liking and The Admiral was even impressed.

After the tour finished up my crew started working their way back towards Montego Bay. They stopped off at an Appleton Rum (Jamaica’s National Rum) tasting store with a small museum but it was closed for the day. Its hours mainly revolve around the Cruise Ship schedules.  Also, they stopped by the Marine Research Center in hopes of taking a tour. Found out that it’s basically a school and generally not open to the public except on special occasions.

Arriving back into the Montego Bay area the crew found a local restaurant – The Pelican Grill – where the Captain decided to try some Goat for supper.  He found out that not all local delicacies are worth trying. Fortunately for him, The Admiral ordered Jerk Chicken and was willing to share.  They washed it down with an awesome Strawberry milkshake then back to the Yacht Club for a drink and dinghy ride to the boat.

Wednesday was a down day set aside for washing rags, venturing into town for a few groceries, some boat chores and clearing customs.  The excitement for the day was a front row seat while watching a Cruise Ship depart for the docks in the evening while sipping on some “PRP”. The Captain seemed a little envious that he doesn’t have Bow and Stern Thrusters like that.

Tomorrow we round the corner to head for Negril and then an up hill trip on the South Side!

Joyce and Brian Clark

S/V Pawsitive Latitude

bclark@umihvac.com

 +1 239 898 7646

Facebook – The Saga of S/V Pawsitive Latitude

I guess

Take me fishing

The kitchen

USDA inspected

Coming into the Cruise ship Docks at Falmouth Bay

Glistening Bay marina

Easy to get lost

Waiting for the Tourists

Stalactites

Underground Lake

Behind the Reef

Party Barge

Party Cat

Arriving in Ocho Rios

Sweet Thruster action

Dunn Falls Park Ocho Rios

Admiral after veggies at Oracabessa

Anchorage Oracabessa

Sunset views

Golden Eye in Oracabessa

Date: 8 April 2018

Location: Anchored in East Harbour, Port Antonio, Jamaica LAT 18° 10.843 LON 076° 26.643

Weather: Drizzle, Mid 80’s, Light Wind E 5 Knots

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in the Bahamas and the folks we met but it was time to say Good Bye to the “Islands In The Stream” and sail away. Anchor went up just before noon as we set out on the 280 +/- NM sail via the Windward Passage headed for Jamaica! “Yeah Mon”. A fair amount of Commercial Traffic rounding the East side of Cuba had us sailing wide but we were soon able to pick up a line for our destination. The Full Moon ducked in and out of the scattered clouds and followed us on the final leg making for a fantastic light show. The last 10 miles we used my engine as the winds eased off but the 8 foot swell remained causing me to roll a little in a following sea. We made decent
time on the trip averaging just over 7 knots for the 38 hour passage arriving in East Harbour, Port Antonio at 0420 Easter Morning. Anchor went down and off to the berths my crew went for a few hours sleep.

We woke to Gospel Music from the Sunrise Service being held along the shore in the Harbour. We learned one thing pretty quick – the locals ain’t afraid to Sing Out. The Admiral wanted to join in but decided it was best to stay on board until the check-in formalities were complete so she listened from the deck and drank her coffee. Later in the morning we radioed Errol Flynn Marina, motored over to West Harbour and tied up to the dock to clear Health, Customs and Immigration. Captain Brian eased me into the slip (this time with no drama) and the crew and staff secured the lines then connected me up to water and power. We got the stack of forms (to be filled out in triplicate) and the Admiral got busy. It wasn’t until almost 1600 hours before we saw the first Official (it was Easter after all – and something about a church picnic after the service). A few questions later, some stamps on the paperwork (triplicate as well) then down came the Yellow Quarantine Flag and up went the Jamaican Courtesy Flag. Soon after, the other uniforms showed up and completed the check-in. The Admiral smoothed the way by serving up some of her “Now Famous Pawsitive Rum Punch” – a.k.a. NFPRP – which the Immigration Officer seemed to enjoy quite well. With the formalities complete, Captain Brian got me checked in with the Marina Staff and my crew was now free to roam.

First “local” we met on the dock was Coco, First Mate on the Sportfishing Yacht in the slip next to me. He offered to play tour guide and my crew headed into town with him to walk a little but more importantly to find some ice cream. It didn’t take long. The Admiral about fainted when the girl behind the counter told them it would be $750. The Captain explained to the Admiral that would be JA$ and the rate is about JA $125 to US $1. They ate up, wandered around a little more and then back to the marina for some rest. Sleep was a little difficult as the sweet Gospel Music we enjoyed that morning now morphed into the local Reggae music that was loud (or maybe I’m just old). This went on until about 0300.

The following day the crew decided to venture out and take a rafting trip down the Rio Grande River. The rafts were – let’s just say – “traditional”. Bamboo stalks cut in roughly 15 feet lengths and 3” to 4” in diameter, lashed together with vines. A Bamboo seat, a cushion stuffed with straw and even Bamboo Cup Holders that were put to good use with the cups, ice and the “NFPRP”  that The Admiral was smart enough to take with them. When my crew arrived at the river, the guides took one look at Captain Brian and decided he deserved his own raft – he thought he was really something special until he heard them say something about a weight limit. But float they did and off they went. Ironically, Captain Brian rode high and dry, it was Captain Robert and The Admirals raft that floated down the river about 4” beneath the surface. Seems that Bamboo eventually becomes water logged and tends to lose its buoyancy. The river averaged about 2 foot deep (although there were some holes as deep as 10 feet) and had a 2 to 3 knot current. The bottom consisted of smooth round stones and loose sand. The guides poled the rafts down the current thru the valley. A few small rapids and lots of twisting turns made for a fun trip. The steep mountain sides were covered in lush tropical foliage, greenery and colorful flowers.

About halfway down the River they rounded a bend and there on a sandbank, was Belinda and Lunch. Belinda has to be the twin sister of the Aunt Jemima Syrup Lady. She was dressed in native colorful clothes and a headdress, cooking under a tarp (supported by Bamboo poles of course), with cast iron pots over wood burning fire. Turns out she hikes down the mountain side every day to prepare a truly Jamaican meal – Fresh Goat, (had tomorrows lunch staked out about 50 yards away), Jerked Chicken (which were running around the sandbank), Crawfish the size of small Lobsters (caught right there in the river by a local 15 year old kid with a short pole spear and mask), Peas and Rice, Baked bread, Bok Choy and Plantains to round out the meal. The Admiral was ready to take Belinda back to the boat with them but Captain Brian was concerned about sharing his berth with the Goat.

The adventure ended where the river meets the ocean and the crew watched as Captain Robert and The Admirals raft was ceremoniously retired and cast adrift into the sea. Appears this was destined to be her final journey down the river. She is now free to wander the Seven Seas on her own.

Captain Robert walked the plank on Wednesday and flew back to the US to visit family, continue his search for his own boat and pursue other opportunities that might come up. We really appreciated all he did with and for us during our cruise thru the Bahamas and with our arrival to Jamaica. His advice, experience, help and comradery will be missed. We expect and look forward to the time when he will rejoin us downstream.

The next morning the crew loosened the dock lines and we returned to East Harbor to be back on the hook to swing in the breeze. We anchored near some new friends we met in the marina, Alison and Andy Nelson on “S/V Venture Lady”. Capt Andy is English but says he is no relation to the famed Captain Horatio Nelson of the British Royal Navy. The 4 of them rented a car and took off to explore the Blue Mountains and the fabled Coffee Plantations. After a lunch stop in Bluff Bay where they filled their bellies with Jerk Chicken and Rice and Peas, they turned South and up into the yonder mountains. No Road Maps to be found in Jamaica so they relied primarily on Google Maps and GPS to navigate their way. They stopped off at several waterfalls and some other places that looked interesting on the way up. Soon the road decayed into dirt, gravel and potholes as it became more winding and narrow but inward and upward they went. Finally they made it to Blue Mountain National Park where they walked some of the Park trails to take in the awesome views out over the hills, one that overlooked Kingston far down to the south. The hope was to get a cabin there at the Park for the night but it was not to be  because they were all rented out. One of the Park Rangers called a friend who had a small cabin nearby and was in the process of “fixing the place up” to put on Airbnb. So down the hill they walked and when they arrived, Admiral Joyce quickly made the decision that more “fixing the place up” was needed before she would consider sleeping there.

The adventure continued onward until they came across “The Old Tavern Plantation”, home of David and Julie who own and operate the coffee plantation. They really enjoyed visiting and were thoroughly entertained by their 4 year old daughter Ava (quite the young Hostess). The home place overlooked their fields covering the mountain side. The garden around the house was incredible with an array of flowers, gardens, hummingbirds, and stone walkways. Right out of a Better Homes and Garden magazine. They drank the fresh brewed coffee and learned a lot about what goes into growing the Blue Mountain Brand of Coffee Bean. One notable requirement is that the plants have to be located above 3,500 feet to qualify. Apparently the clean air and temperature has an effect on the quality of the bean.

When Julie learned of our search for a place to stay the night she called her friend Robert, proprietor of Prince Valley Lodge, to make arrangements. They drove down the mountain about 3 miles (more winding and twisting) until reaching the landmark they were looking for. A hairpin turn at “Bubbles Bar” where they stopped to take a picture to send to their friend Jeanette “Bubbles” Cook and to have a drink. The final mile to the lodge was on a side “road” (better described as a washed out dry river bed) and was a trip all by itself. Fit for an amusement park with all of the turns, gulleys, steam crossings, hills and ruts. That said, it was a side adventure well worth the effort. Rustic but clean and neat – most importantly though it got The Admiral’s Seal Of Approval.

The Tree House Cabin was just that – literally built in a tree and with the 4 foot diameter trunk coming up thru the middle of the cabin. The bed was a little small for the Captain and Admiral so they deferred to Allison and Andy and let them sleep amongst the branches and leaves. The Admiral picked out another Cabin that was built in the side of the hill and had a door that was only 4 ½ foot high at the entrance. Reminded the Captain of a Hobbit House but he was able to use his yoga skills to get thru the door. Dinner that evening was under the Stars complete with Candlelight (don’t ever say the Captain isn’t a romantic). Fish, Salad and yes- rice and peas were served. Andy broke out a bottle of Cuban Rum he brought with him for cocktails. All and all they said it was a wonderful day.

They awoke Friday morning to a beautiful Sunrise and Coffee with Breakfast on the patio overlooking the Valley. They explored the gardens around the Lodge and it was then time to move on. They toured the Blue Mountain Coffee Plant where the beans are processed and packed for distribution. Basically they are sorted, washed, dried, shelled and then washed, dried and sorted. Not very high tech. Finally, they are packaged and shipped. The 1st sorting is by machine, the 2nd sorting is by hand by a row of ladies seated next to a slow moving conveyor belt. my crew learned that it takes 60 pounds of “raw” coffee beans (like bright red cherries when picked) to produce 11 pounds of finished product ready for market. The finished product runs about $40/lb (that might seem a little high until you realize that includes a nice little burlap sack and a pretty label) and actually ships to Japan.

The road my crew chose (better described as a one lane dirt and rock path) to come down from the mountain took them on the South side of the range and to the East side of Kingston. The road did not get any better on the way down. Forged several shallow rivers and bumped along the rock strewn road until they finally reached the coast. Definitely not something to be attempted after dark. Wonder if some of the people that live up in those mountains ever come down to the city. Once they reached the coast the road improved somewhat. The group stopped in Boston, the birthplace Jerk seasoning, to enjoy some pork sausage that they ate while sitting out on the beach people watching. It was a nice little cove with clear calm water. They traveled on a little further along the coast and decided to stay the night at Casa Lagoon. The hotel was located on an enclosed Mangrove bay so the water as a little murky. The owner/operator was very pleasant and accommodating and also doubled as the cook. In the morning they made the final leg around the east side of the island and arrived back at the marina in time for Happy Hour on the pool deck. They met Susan Taylor and Brian Bartlett on “S/V Uhuru” enjoying the pool as well. Susan joined Brian as Crew thru a website called, appropriately enough http://www.findacrew.com. One of many sailing websites that match people looking to travel and for adventure with boats that need crew both long and short term.

Sunday morning The Admiral and Captain Brian returned the rental car, stopped by a local vegetable stand for a few items, and returned to the boat to relax and enjoy the breeze. I think they missed me. Monday Captain Brian found the Customs Office to secure the Departure paperwork (yes – in triplicate) and took Sea Tigger to the Marina for the Immigration paperwork while The Admiral prepped me for departure. That evening, they joined the folks on Venture Lady and Uhuru one last time for drinks at Anna Banana’s, supper at Youst Café and topped it off with a stroll to the ice cream shop. Tomorrow is Westward Ho! along the north shore.

Joyce and Brian Clark
S/V Pawsitive Latitude
bclark@umihvac.com

+1 239 898 7646
Facebook – The Saga of S/V Pawsitive Latitude

$750 ice cream, ok Jamaican Dollars

Suited up

All smiles before sinking

Getting better at selfies

Capt Brian and his own raft

Wild cows

Along the river

Mountain views

Time to retire

Fresh Crayfish

Tomorrow’s Lunch?

Delicious food!

Finger licking good

Admiral getting cooking tips

Best buddies

Cruising down the rio grande

Departing Port Antonio Harbour

cast adrift for burial at sea

Didn’t spill my drink

end of the road

Country cooking

Our chariots await

Paws could get jealous

Shes going down

River captain

The hungry crew can hardly wait

Advertising at its best

Anna Banana’s east bay Port Antonio

Blue mountain park head quarters

Boston beach, home of the jerk seasoning

coffee stop

coffee growing on the hillside

After the bean has been shelled

Flower garden at old Tavern

Garden at old Tavern

Iced ginger in bloom

Good place to get lost

Kingston off to the Southeast

off the plant

Mountain hideaway

On the way to the blue mountains

On the way to grandmas house

Our road down the mountain

Our landmark for Prince Valley

Our coffee plantation hosts

Roadside vegetable stand

Surf shack on Boston Beach

would make any interior decorator jealous

They’re on the menu

The perfect setting to enjoy a meal

The resort pool

The second sorting

Ready to throw on the grill

Jerk Chicken on the grill

its $40/lb but includes Burlap sack

Homemade hot sauce

New friends

Robert was Thankful when he found Bananas

Best tree house I’ve ever slept in

Old Tavern coffee

Local produce always available

Date: 29 March 2018

Location: Anchored off Matthew Town, Great Inagua, Bahamas LAT 20° 57.406 LON 073° 40.852

Weather: Clear, Mid 80’s, Moderate Wind ENE 15 Knots

Departed Clarence Town on 26 March and motor sailed NE to clear the point of the reef and then fell off to the SSE toward Great Inagua. Engine off at 0930 and my sails went up. We found we could sail on a beam reach faster than we could motor sail. My crew put the lines out looking for “dem fishes”.

During our journey, we were soon joined by a pod of Dolphin! Several jumped out of the water and others surfed the waves next to me playing in my bow wake. We continued along the coast of Long Island for several hours sailing in beautiful deep blue waters and enjoying the day. Further down the shoreline, my keel grew heavy as we passed by the wreck of the DeBora’s Dreamscape that washed ashore in 2006. Using our binoculars, the crew viewed and marveled at the caves and cliffs along the beach created by the relentless wave action.

To lift my spirits, The Captain decided it was time to break out my Spinnaker and see what I could do. It took a while to get me rigged and get all the lines and sheets set up. When they finally got everything ready, they doused the Yankee and Main and let my spinnaker spring free from the sail bag. While deploying, the furling line that is attached to the fiberglass cone used to raise and lower the snuffer seemed to snag on something when the sail was about half way up. This made fully opening and raising the sail a little bit of a challenge but eventually the wind pushed the turtleshell upward to the top of the halyard and she spread out to her full glory. Only problem was the furling line was not secured and now the bitter end of the line was about halfway up the sail and out of reach from the deck. (Note to Captain – tie furling line to deck cleat in the future). Guess we’ll worry about that “later”. We rollicked along in a steady wind (about 15 knots off the beam) but I couldn’t quite make the rhumb line needed and still keep the wind aft of the beam. Our next destination was about 35 degrees to Port from our current track. So after about 3 hours when the wind started picking up and clocking to the East, we came up in the wind to bring my spinnaker in. Now suddenly became the “later”. The crew had to lower the halyard to reach the furling line, get control and get the snuffer pulled down. They got hold of the furling line and started to bring the snuffer down but the snag remained so the Captain decided it was best and safest to put the sail in the water, detach the Tack to dump the wind and pull her aboard by hand. We cleared the twisted line and manually pulled the sock the rest of the way down as we brought the Spinnaker aboard. Once we got her tucked in and stowed away, it was back to my Mainsail and Yankee. I was now nicely making good in a 20 to 25 knot breeze reaching 8.5 to 9 knots VMG towards our destination. It was decided that next time we would wait for a little calmer breeze and an apparent wind angle that is more aft of the beam before letting my spinnaker loose again.

The Sun dropped and an almost Full Moon rose in its place to guide me pretty much the rest of the way. The Moon dipped below the horizon at about 0430 and we lost our light, so we reefed the Main and put out the Staysail for the rest of the passage. A building North swell provided a little roll but not too uncomfortable. Not long after Sunrise, we raised Man-O War Bay and anchored up tight in the NE corner for protection  and also we were looking forward to some well-deserved rest.

Once we got my anchor set, Captain Brian took a look in the Chart Book and put in a call to Casper (yep – as in “The Friendly Ghost”) to set up a tour of the National Park and the Flamingo Breeding grounds as well the Morton Salt Plant for the following day. Turns out that rest for the weary crew was not to be had. Casper had friends flying in the following day and would not be available so the tour got moved up to “I’ll meet you on the beach in about an hour”. So a quick shower and off in Sea Tigger they went. Casper had ordered them up some lunch at a local restaurant that doubles as a “school cafeteria”. A big pile of Cracked Conch, french fries and hot sauce raised the crews’ cholesterol level a few points. They said it seemed like lot of energetic kids all in their school uniforms come to the café for lunch during their break. They are probably banished from going home in order to give their mamas a break. Actually, the crew was quite impressed with how well behaved the kids were and how they seemed to interact together quite well.

Casper then took the crew on a tour of the islands notable sites. First up was the Lighthouse on the southern point of the island. Built by the same folks that put up the Lighthouse in Hope Town Harbour. This one was a little taller (crew reported 147 steps to be exact) and originally had the same internal working of gears, counter weights, a kerosene lamp and Fresnel lenses. They described spectacular views from the top overlooking Mother Ocean and the Salts Flats stretching far across the island. To my disappointment, modern technology had taken over and the beauty of a fire burning kerosene lamp had been turned into an LED at the end of a faded orange extension cord. The caretaker’s quarters are now abandoned and sit decaying away. They say it’s practical and cheaper. Maybe that’s true, but there’s just something about the old ways…..

Next, my crew was taken to a small local museum in town near the original shipping port. Most of the salt collected here is used for deicing roads and in water softeners. The process involved is fairly simple and straightforward; seawater is pumped into a huge (34,000 acre) reservoir where the impurities are removed by settling and controlled movement of the brine into shallow flats called crystallizers. Each of the 60 flats cover over 15 acres where the water evaporates – leaving the fresh salt to be harvested. When the new salt levels in the flat build up about 6” deep (on top of the old hard base), road graders are used to form up the salt in hedge rows and a tractor with a conveyor loads it into dump trucks. It’s then taken to the plant and dumped into hoppers to be washed, screened and stockpiled waiting to be transferred via a 1,400 foot conveyor out to freighters that can handle upwards of 6,000 tons. A ship can be loaded in about 7 ½ hours now as compared to when small barges had to be loaded to move the salt out to larger ships in deeper waters. A very labor intensive process that would take 5 or 6 days. There’s just something about the old ways…..

Final stop of the day was the Flamingo Breeding Grounds in the National Preserve. Casper is an “official” Bahamas National Trust Park Warden as was his father and grandfather. Known as “The Fillymingo Men” they are the responsible for the Management of the Preserve and protection of the birds in the Park. A position he is rightly proud of. The trip out to the breeding grounds took them along a series of rough and rocky roads (basically the dikes that formed the reservoir). The dikes separated the Morton Plant property and the government owned wild natural areas around the island. The Dragonflies were as thick as the annual invasion of Lovebugs in Florida during the early spring. My crew said there seemed to be millions of them. Finally, they arrived at the breeding areas but were not able to get as close as hoped. With use of some spotting scopes and binoculars they could view them in their habitat. It was estimated up to 60,000 birds nest in the Park. My crew said they were very majestic, graceful creatures, with pink and black feathers on the trailing edge of their wings. Never got an answer to the mystery of why they often stand on one leg…

After a full day, Casper dropped my tired crew back off at the beach for the short dingy ride out to where I lay waiting. The next morning we motored about 5 miles south along the coast to the new government dock to get our clearance out of the Bahamas from Customs. The harbor was recently upgraded to handle a Bahamas Defense Force Cruiser that happened to be in port when we arrived. There were new finger piers open but the Captain elected to remain just outside and anchor as he was concerned about the turning radius inside the basin. Just as we were getting ready to drop the anchor about 150 feet from shore, Captain Brian noticed a small (30 foot) engineless, Bahama Rigged wooden Scull was making its way along the coast from the South and would be crossing in front of us. We held fast and extended Honors as she gracefully passed by and were in awe as She made a hard gybe to Starboard and into the basin thru its 30 foot opening. She dropped sails, made a hard turn back to Port and came to a rest just inches from the seawall. A masterful job of seamanship, helm control and maneuvering. Captain Brian was duly impressed by the approach to the dock made famous by the legendary Capt Ron.

When my crew hopped in Sea Tigger for the quick ride into the marina, Captain Brian took the opportunity to speak with Her Captain. Turns out Her crew were all Haitians and she regularly comes up to Great Inagua to collect pretty much anything they can get their hands on. Crushed metal tanks, old appliances, broken window frames, scrap lumber, torn tarps – anything that might be of some use down in Haiti. After a few minutes of comradery between the two Mariners the Immigration Officer showed up to check-in and clear the Haitian vessel. This turned out to be great timing as the Officer provided my crew a ride to the Customs office so they could complete their departure clearance paperwork. Conveniently enough, a liquor store is located right between the Customs and Immigration offices. Not sure if this had anything bearing on it but the Customs Officer was in a great mood and clearance was simple and quick. My crews timing was perfect, they cleared Customs, picked up a couple bottles of Rum and walked out the door just as the Immigration Officer was leaving for lunch. They caught a ride back to town and had lunch themselves at Shenia’s. After a fine meal of fish and slaw they walked back to the Harbour.

Out on the dock, Captain Brian headed back over to watch the crew from Haiti as they were loading Her hold for the return trip while The Admiral wandered over to meet Lionel Sole and Elsie Downie on “S/V Ruby Tuesday”. Visiting with Lionel and Elsie was an Australian couple – Guanilla and Tony on “S/V Katriana” who had just finished clearing in to the Bahamas and were anchored next to us outside the Habour. Later in the evening, Guanilla and Tony joined us on Paws for drinks and a light supper as we shared sea tales. They brought “Katriana” from Australia across the Indian Ocean, around Cape of Good Hope and cross the Atlantic to Brazil then up the coast. Very interesting hearing about their adventures and experiences.

After an enjoyable evening, my crew spent a rolly night thanks to a SW swell that kept The Admiral awake most of the night. The Captain, who can sleep thru a Hurricane, claims he didn’t notice. Early the next morning, The Admiral needed her coffee the old fashion way – perked, hot and strong. Capt Robert and The Admiral made a quick dash for a few provisions and then all gathered on S/V Katriana for more coffee and lunch. They spent most of the day sharing more stories, discussing boat issues, sailing gear, points of interest and future plans. My crew came back late afternoon to tidy me up a bit and prep for a morning departure for an estimated two night passage to Jamaica.

Joyce and Brian Clark

S/V Pawsitive Latitude

bclark@umihvac.com

+1 239 898 7646

Facebook – The Saga of S/V Pawsitive Latitude

Sunset views

Admiral enjoying the ride

break out the salt shaker

Breeding ground

Casper the friendly ghost

Casper’s Office

Channeling to the reservoir

Crystallizer pond

Flying proud

Harvesting the goods

Inside a conch shell

Just in from Haiti

Loading up

Making Babies

Off watch

Proud Captain

Pumping in the Raw material

Real sailormen

Standing watch

View from the top

Wading in the pond

Why do you need a jail on the island?

Selfie at the top

Date: 25 March2018

Location: Anchored off Sandy Point, Clarence Town, Exuma, Bahamas LAT 23° 06.347 LON 074° 56.829

Weather: Partly Cloudy, High 70’s, Windy NNE 10 – 15 Knots

We arrived at Lee Stocking Island on Monday 19 March and dropped the hook on the west side of the Cay in Gin clear water. Off to the east of us about half a mile away we could see a fairly extensive group of buildings. Of course, my intrepid crew quickly launched Sea Tigger and marched right past a warning sign that I would have sworn said “No Trespassing – Violators will be Fed to the Sharks”. However, my Binoculars must have been out of focus because, according to the crew, it really read “Trespassers Welcome – Enjoy your day Plundering, Hiking and Coconut Collecting”.

The facility was once a thriving Marine Research Center but lost its government funding in 2012 and now might qualify for a scene in a Tom Clancy book. All the buildings and outdoor specimen collection tanks were in various stages of disrepair – some with leaking roofs and crumbling porches along with the concrete containment walls starting to give into the elements. For some reason the people seem to have departed in a hurry – that is if they departed at all. File cabinets still in place, reports and case studies left on the desks, fixtures, computer monitors and furniture abandoned. Everything from trucks, support vehicles, a backhoe (Captain Brian checked – the keys were missing) and several diesel generators where parked in the compound. Research equipment, dozens of aquariums and jars of laboratory chemicals were still on the shelves. Nearby a large wind driven generator (interesting in that the base of its tower support is hinged to raise and lower by winches and cables) was still on site. The skeleton of a solar farm (panels had been removed), the communication radio antennas, fuel tanks and pumps were still there quietly rusting away.

Nearby was a nice 4,500 x 250 foot asphalt runaway that one could just visualize a DC-3 coming in on short final with its load from Columbia. Has a few “pot” holes in it now but wouldn’t take much to get her back in shape. The Quonset Hut hanger off to the side was starting to cave in. There was a separate workshop with a forklift parked nearby (yep, he checked – keys missing in that one too) along with a large tool / storage shed.

They hiked south down the runway then over a small hill and down to the shoreline where they found several nice (in the day) homes with full wrap around porches that you could sense were used by the power brokers to enjoy Cuban Rum and Cigars while overlooking the ocean and making deals. One house was surrounded by a bunch of coconut trees just full of ripe nuts waiting for the crew to knock them down and bring back to enjoy. (Side Note: The battery reciprocating saw came in handy when it was time to peel the husks and cut them open for the meat and milk.)

Strangely, just as the crew got back in Sea Tigger and started their trip to come back, the wind picked up to 25 knots and extremely choppy waves built up. Dare I think the island was trying to tell them it wanted them to remain – maybe for a long time?

The crew did make it back and the next morning it was off for an overnight passage to Clarence Town, Long Island. Great sail for the first part of the trip around the north point of Long Island but had to crank up the engine in the early morning hours when the wind eased off and finally died. We arrived at sunrise and anchored outside the breakwater to await the last of rising tide before entering Flying Fish Marina to top off the diesel tank and allow the crew to grab an early lunch. My 8 ½ foot draft prevented us from staying in the Marina overnight which was just fine with me. So after we both got our fill, we went back out to the anchorage which, in my opinion, turned out to be an amazing blessing. I believe this was the most picturesque spot we have dropped the hook in the Bahamas so far. We were less than 150’ off a sandy spit of shoreline (appropriately named Sandy Point) in 17’ foot of incredibly clear, calm water. We were protected by a reef 400’ to the East with the waves crashing over the rocks and spraying up in the air. There was only one other boat in the area, “S/V Nauticuss” who was single handed by Ross Pegg (says he was a Naughty old Cuss). Invited him over for sunset drinks and snacks. Turns out Ross has ventured around the Horn “many years ago” courtesy of the US Navy.

Next day, The Admiral, Capt Brian and Capt Ross headed out to explore the town while Robert stayed behind to rest up. They wandered the town and visited a couple of local churches. Story about these church’s is that Father Jerome, who originally built a Monastery called The Hermitage  (now mostly in ruins) on Cat Island up on Mount Alvernia (at 206 feet it’s the highest point in the Bahamas), was quite the fellow. He left Cat Island and relocated to Long Island where he built St Peter and Paul Catholic Church using the same stone construction technique as The Hermitage yet he made it bigger and stronger. At some point he converted to the Anglican Church so he moved over about a ½ mile and built his 3rd Church – St. Paul’s Anglican Church which is still in operation today.

The local store in town had a few items but no fresh veggies so we found Ernest, the towns “Taxi Driver / Island Tour Guide” who is truly a credit to his community. He met the crew at the government dock and took them to the next town north to a grocery store that met all of the Admiral’s requirements for produce and the Captain’s requirement for Chocolate. In all, Ernest took them by 6 stores; grocery store, wholesale beverage store, (2) liquor stores, a hardware store, an auto parts store, and a general merchandise store. Seems like his job was to promote the local economy by taking cruisers to all the local establishments.

After dropping them back in the center of downtown Clarence Town (population 68 when everyone’s relatives from out of town are visiting), the scouting group went by Rowdy Boys Bar and Grill to make reservations for the Friday night’s Pork Barbecue Festivities. Then they hurried back to Paws to unload provisions and then headed back up to shore for Happy Hour and the Meat. It was a great evening swimming in the Bars pool and talking to a local fisherman that had to be Hemingway’s lead character in “Old Man in the Sea”. Then they ate supper with what seemed like all 68 people in the town including a group from Thomasville, GA and a few over from Florida along with their bikes. The people with bikes were pedaling the island down and back (covering about 160 miles). For some reason they stood the entire evening.

Captain Brian also got a close up look of a traditional Bahamian Sailing Scull that won the recent Long Island Regatta but is now up in the hard next to the Bar. The winning trophy is proudly on display at Rowdy’s.

The following day Captain’s Robert and Brian did some snorkeling around the area looking for Lobsters and Conch. Admiral Joyce did a fantastic job of following them in the dinghy without running them over once. Robert found a King Helmet Conch which is a rare sight with its bright red and orange coloring but not good eating. They were unsuccessful finding any bugs but fortunately The Admiral came thru once again with grilled chicken, cabbage slaw, rice, and topped it off with a real treat of frozen homemade coconut rum pudding.

Tomorrow we weigh anchor and depart for our final stop in the Bahamas at Great Inagua and the Flamingo’s.

Joyce and Brian Clark
S/V Pawsitive Latitude
bclark@umihvac.com
+1 239 898 7646
Facebook – The Saga of S/V Pawsitive Latitude

Admirals new friends at Rowdy Boys

Bahamian yard

Beach bar at its finest

Lonesome road

Anglican church

Catholic Church or launch pad

Old hanger

don’t need no stinkin life lines

Abandoned runway

getting the main course ready

Good advice

abandoned house

Got to try the head meat

Government dock at Clarence Town

Relaxation at its finest

Heard his wife wanted a castle

Mansion views

Inside St. Paul Anglican church

Long Island Churches built by Father Jerome

Fun with the spinnaker

Place to be on Friday’s in Clarence town

abandoned hanger

Rowdy knows pig

Aquariums left behind

The Rowdy boy ranch

Coconuts beware

Winner of the 2018 long island regatta

Entrance to Lee Stocking Island

Home Depot Bahamas style

ho we make our coconut rum

Keys were missing

Might take a little work to get her running

Plenty of Fuel

Put de rum in de coconut

Put them to sleep medicine

Runway fit for a DC-3

Solar panel array

Specimen containment tanks

They paid them for something

Wind turbine support

Wind turbine

Date: 18 March 2018

Location: Moored off Big Major Spot, Staniel Cay, Exuma, Bahamas LAT 24° 10.775 N LON 076° 26.795 W

Weather: Sunny, Mid 80’s, Winds N 10 – 12 Knots

After a peaceful, relaxing stay in the Compass Cay / Cambridge Cay area we motored down island in a light following breeze to Staniel Cay. Basically, ran parallel to the shore working the 150 and 250 foot contour lines in hopes of picking up a Mahi but no luck (ok – we got a barracuda). Staniel Cay is much more a “Cruisers Destination” with the Staniel Cay Yacht Club (SCYC), ThunderBall Grotto, Nurse Sharks by the dozens, several grocery stores (by Bahama standards), Propane and of course the World Famous Swimming Pigs. Lots of boats anchored in the area but the water is a little shallow around the islands for us so we opted to hook to a mooring buoy in 17-18 feet of water. The moorings are located near a Grotto that was featured in a James Bond film. The cave entrance is just underwater at high tide and exposed at low tide. Big tourist spot. Spent a fair amount of the day watching the hordes of snorkelers and listening to the loud music.

One boat anchored nearby us has to be in the running for the Ultimate Cruisers Condo. “M/V Jenny”, a Grand Banks complete with a stem to stern canvas job, full 3rd story enclosure, Captain’s Chairs on the bow, extensive greenhouse and vegetable garden on the top deck and a Ships Bell on deck to complete the ensemble.

My crew took advantage of the weekly supply boats arrival on Thursday to search out provisions at one of the local grocery stores (locally known as The Blue House as opposed to its competition a.k.a The Pink House).

They meet up with our friends from “S/V Take Me There” and enjoyed St Patrick’s Day treating ourselves to an awesome 4 course dinner at SCYC chowing down on the Traditional fixins of Corn Beef, Cabbage, Potatoes and Black Bean Soup. Then topped it off with Cheese Cake! They shared some cruising stories and a few poorly sung Irish songs.

Slept in the next morning, had breakfast and then they were off in Sea Tigger to see the “World Famous Swimming Pigs”. However, they said the coolest thing was seeing the “Ultimate Cruisers Toy” – a 4 wheel boat driving not only up to but on to the beach. Suspect that machine put a dent in someone’s budget. On the return dinghy ride back to me the crew passed by a fancy Charter Boat anchor off the beach complete with a Super Slide that would make any water park jealous. Homemade guacamole dip and chips for appetizer, leftovers and a movie ended a great day. Tomorrow we’ll slip the mooring ball and it’s off to Lee Stocking Island!

Joyce and Brian Clark

S/V Pawsitive Latitude

bclark@umihvac.com

+1 239 898 7646

Facebook – The Saga of S/V Pawsitive Latitude

Approaching Compass Cay

Captain Brians portrait

cooling off

Couldn’t they just jump in?

Dinner

Feed me or suffer the consequences

He’s waiting for you Joann

Keep your feet out of the water

New Tourist Taxi

Sunning on the Beach

The crew of S/V Take me There

Waiting for someone to slip and fall in

Where’s the beef?

Wind against current